Salvage and recycling: what your old house is worth
An old house isn't just a demolition cost — it's a pile of materials, some of them genuinely valuable. Up to 90% of demolition material is recyclable, and on the right house, salvage returns $800–$12,000. Here's what's worth money, what isn't, and how to make sure the value lands in your quote instead of quietly leaving on someone else's truck.
What's actually worth money
- Scrap metal — the reliable earner. Steel roofing and framing, gutters, hot water services, copper pipe and wiring, cast-iron baths. Copper is the standout per kilo; a whole-house strip of copper and steel reliably returns hundreds to a couple of thousand dollars.
- Red bricks. Solid clay bricks from pre-1970s homes clean up and resell at roughly 50c–$2 each — a double-brick or solid-brick home can hold 8,000–15,000 of them. The catch: bricks laid in hard cement mortar (most post-1950s) often won't clean economically; lime-mortar bricks from older homes are the prize.
- Hardwood. Regional Victorian homes were framed and floored in timbers you can't buy today — messmate, red gum, oregon in spans, baltic pine boards. Recycled timber yards pay real money for straight, de-nailed stock, and demand keeps rising.
- Character fixtures. Claw-foot baths, fireplace surrounds, leadlight, solid doors, pressed-metal ceilings. Individually modest, collectively worthwhile — and often best sold by you privately before demolition, where you keep 100%.
What's worth less than people hope
- Modern brick veneer bricks — cement mortar, low resale, usually crushed instead.
- Pine framing from post-1970s homes — recyclable, not valuable.
- Anything asbestos-adjacent: fibro-era sheds, and timber contaminated by damaged asbestos, carry disposal cost, not value.
- Second-hand appliances and kitchens — sell them yourself beforehand if they're good; they're worth nothing once the machines arrive.
Recycling that saves you money even when it doesn't pay you
Concrete and brick rubble goes to crushers and comes back as road base — tipped at a fraction of landfill rates. Clean timber, green waste and metals likewise divert cheaply. This is why a contractor who sorts on site (separate loads for concrete, metal, timber, general) demolishes cheaper than one who mixes everything into landfill loads — and why "all disposal included" quotes differ by thousands: they're not planning the same disposal.
How salvage credits should work in your quote
- Agree it in writing before signing. Either the quote nets salvage off the price ("demolition $18,500 less $1,500 salvage credit"), or specific items are excluded for you to sell ("owner retains claw-foot bath, front door, 400 red bricks").
- Beware "we'll see what we find". That means the value leaves on their truck.
- Strip your keepsakes first. Anything sentimental or privately saleable comes out before the soft strip, on a written list.
Timing matters too
Salvage is a market: scrap metal prices move monthly, recycled timber yards fill and empty, and brick cleaners take batches when they have hands available. A contractor plugged into the local salvage network — who knows which yard wants baltic pine this month and which scrappie pays properly for copper — recovers meaningfully more than one who tips first and thinks later. Ask when the salvage will be sold and at whose price; "whenever, at whatever" is a discount you're funding.
Two worked tallies from our patch
1920s weatherboard, Echuca-style: 60 sqm of baltic pine flooring to a recycled timber yard ~$1,200; hardwood framing (partial recovery) ~$600; 2 claw-foot baths, doors and leadlight sold privately ~$900; scrap steel, copper and iron ~$700; 1,500 cleanable lime-mortar bricks ~$1,100. Roughly $4,500 against a $19,000 demolition — nearly a quarter of the job.
1985 brick veneer, anywhere: scrap metal run (steel roof, HWS, copper) ~$650; everything else crushed or recycled at reduced tip rates but no resale. Under $1,000 — worth having, not worth romanticising.
The honest position: salvage rarely makes demolition free, whatever the TV shows imply, but on pre-war homes it reliably offsets 10–30% of the cost — and it's your money, not the contractor's, if the quote says so. Either way, you should know before you sign — our quotes itemise it. Get a salvage-honest quote.